2 Glorious Days in the Whop-whops

July 14 and 15 - two glorious days in the whop-whops. (Whop-whop is Kiwi for boonies or boondocks.)
We spent Saturday afternoon through Monday morning anchored at beautiful Port Olry. We were greeted by Samba, a kid boat that we met at our first stop in Aneityum and have seen all along our travels in Vanuatu including Port Vila . Sunday we took a dinghy ride all around the islets, islands, coves and bays of magnificent Port Olry with white sand beaches, brilliant turquoise waters and vibrant coral and reef life. The water was so crystal clear that just by looking over the side of the boat was like SCUBA diving. We asked about dugongs, called fis cow (fish cow) in Bislama or sea cow. Yes, two live here in the bay by the jetty but, alas, they didn't come say hi. It seems Sunday morning must be bath day because as we dinghied along people would shriek, run out of the water, grab a towel and disappear into the forest. We explored the jungle up a river which ended at a blue hole spring which was far as we could go. We saw Collared Kingfisher, Swamp Harrier, of course the ubiquitous and numerous Glossy and White-Rumped Swiftlets, Grey Fantail, Coconut/Rainbow Lorikeets, heard Gerygone, and saw Melanesian Cuckooshrike and Mackinlay's Cuckoo-dove. The river went under the canopy of trees and vines putting us in a dark green and quiet world. Heavenly.
The weather forecast was for SE wind of 20 knots. We decided we needed a more protected anchorage so we headed north and around the east finger of Santo into Big Bay. We sailed back south to get deep into Big Bay where we would have no swell and little wind. A brilliant plan and a brilliant motor/sail along a coast which reminded us of cruising along the shoreline of Santa Cruz in the Channel Islands of California. Along the way there was an uprising of fruit bats with 50 to 100 flying foxes in the air at a time, disturbed by something - what? We also saw a reef heron being chased and harassed by a fruit bat - just like song birds chasing and harassing a raven or hawk. There were fish which ran upright along the surface of the water using their tail to propel themselves we guess. Wonder what they are. Terns and herons and another one of those Cuckooshrikes. At our new anchorage the women were out on the rocks by a small river beating their laundry. Barry went ashore, as is the courteous thing to do here, to see the chief and ask permission to anchor in their bay and to walk on their land. The answer is always yes, but because every scrap of land and every drop of water, every reef, rock, beach, and every river is owned by someone or some clan, there is no "public access" like we have. Visitors like us are not a threat to this system but the neighboring village might be. They used to have wars and even cannibalism over territorial claims but now they are hostile in ways other than out and out warfare. This village of Matantas used to be split by religion and politics but now they have come together to create a conservation area with visitor services like guides, meals and very basic bungalows. The Forest and Bird Society of New Zealand was the driving force in creating this conservation area, mostly to avoid having Asian loggers log the forests. Birders come here now and we hope the area flourishes. Miraculous.

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